Year 9 Marine Camp

By Mary B (Year 9 Student)

The sun set a soft glimmer across the blue water. Waves formed like billowing folds that curled and crashed in bubbling white foam and made their way to the shore. I felt the hot sand delicately crumble underneath my bare feet and watched as they ran ahead with their surfboards and their long locks bobbed gracefully on their backs. I clumsily stumbled forwards, struggling against the rough wind. In the water I galloped forwards, battling against the waves and my surfboard’s willingness to break free and drag me with it.

A wave. A beautiful wave, pale green, white, blue, a blur of mystic colour. I felt a nervous pang in my chest, a silent angst. What was I doing? My intense fear of deep water beckoned me to succumb. Taking a deep breath, I glanced at my pale hands wading through the shallows as I reached waist depth where the waves resembled monstrous sea serpents, coiling with wrath. 

As foam splashed in my face I took another deep breath and recalled the giant swing. The overwhelming fear and joy that accompanied the ride, the feeling of achievement. Everything felt clear and magic again. I smiled and gingerly climbed on to my board. Crash. I attempted to get on to my knees and balance. A wondrous sensation, followed by a great fall. Water gathered into my lungs and nose as I was swept underneath the carpet of the ocean. Leaping up from the water, I spluttered and I was assisted by the surf professionals. I tried to catch a wave and stand but never quite made it.

‘I bet you’re smart’ the surf professional had said. ‘but I’m not sure if you’ll be a professional surfer.’

I was still overjoyed the feeling of relief and accomplishment overrode any disappointment. The sand and sea were alive with abundant beauty and though tired I was happy. I tried many times to stand on my board but it was difficult, but I suppose what was more important was the sensation of belief and perhaps someday I will catch a wave, but for now a couple of wipe-outs won’t bother me!